A tree growing in a cleft of rock on a mountainside is in a precarious position. It is always in danger of being ripped from its perch by wind and weather.

The tree has a minimum of soil to support it and is therefore not able to obtain all the minerals and nutrients it needs to support a luxuriant growth style. The foliage will be sparse and somewhat ragged. The trunk will be twisted and gnarled. Often the tree will attempt to grow up to the sun but its weight will pull it down again.

When we go about designing our cascade or semi cascade we should take into account all these factors that would create a natural cascade and try to incorporate them into our tree. As with all Bonsai we should remember the rules of foliage to the side, then back, then other side but with the cascade we can imagine an upright tree bent forward so that the back branches will face the front This is important as the branches that would normally be at the back to give depth to the tree are still required for the same purpose, but as the tree would normally grow against the rock or mountain, the branches could no longer survive behind the plant.

To add depth and a three dimensional effect it is a good idea to change the direction of the trunk at each place a branch emerges. The direction does not have to reverse merely change slightly. This also applies for movement front and back where depth branches are placed.

Branches themselves can also cascade with individual tufts of foliage being place at different levels and in front of or behind the flow of the branch.

Some bonsai artists do not place an apex on a cascade but merely have it sweep down from it's lofty position. I personally feel that an apex with perhaps a balancing branch adds depth and balance to a tree. One could think of the tree as a short informal upright with a very long and drooping first branch.

< ----Left with no apex.... Right with apex ----->

The tail of a cascade should finish up directly beneath the spot where the trunk leaves the soil. (This is not always the case especially with "Literati" style cascades.) With normal cascades however I feel that it adds balance to the tree. (Don't forget that rules are there to be broken if it adds to the appearance of the tree.) The tail may wind from side to side about the central position one or many times depending on the length of the tail or the effect desired. Each swing however should decrease as the tail is approached. This gives a more pleasant tapering effect.

Trees that are suitable for cascades are usually those with a normally pendulous or drooping habit. Ground covers are ideal. Juniper procumbens and juniper prostrata are ideal specimens for cascades as the growing tips are still vigorous in growth even though the end of the plant is below the base of the trunk. Some plants will not tolerate this effect well and the tail often looses vigour and will in some instances shrivel and die.

Pots for cascades are many and varied. The traditional pot is tall and narrow with the plant trailing down from it. I often use my own rough cast "rock pots" to good effect. Placed on a tall stand or block of plain timber these give the appearance of clefts in the rock from which the plant is emerging.

It should be said that the cascade, along with all trees, most likely started life growing vertically up into the sun. It is only later in life that gravity and perverse nature have caused the tree into an unnatural growth habit. We should remember to have the tree leave the pot in a generally upright direction and the take a sudden turn towards the chasm over which it grows. Gentle curves should be avoided. A dramatic change in direction from up to down will add drama and character to your tree.

Before designing your tree, as with any bonsai, examine the trunk first to determine which changes of angle can be exploited to greatest effect. Sometimes it is a side branch that will provide the best direction and this can then be chosen as the new leader.

After examining the trunk and deciding the leader, trim away any small tufts of foliage as they will only be in the way. Use a heavy gauge wire to wire the main trunk from soil to tip. Some times it may be necessary to use two or more wires to wire the trunk. One wire may go the whole distance while the other stops some way along the trunk, only where it is needed.

I often wire more side branches than I will actually be using. It is always easy to remove them later but much more difficult to glue them back on. When all the pads are wired begin bending the trunk from side to side so that it descends gracefully from the roots to the lowest pad. You may have to change bends and directions several times before the correct balance is obtained. Be careful not to over work a branch as it may crack.

Now remove any excess branches choosing to keep those that are in the most advantageous positions. Sometimes it is better to sacrifice an older bushier branch and keep a young but sparser branch if it is in a better position. They will grow and improve.

Cascades are a great joy to own and are elegant and graceful. I would highly recommend one in any collection.